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Boreal-Allcord GB Youth Climbing Team go to Imst (Austria)


The Last couple of weeks have been hard training for our Boreal-Allcord (B-A) GB Team, with upcoming European events such as the European Youth Cup (EYC) for Hamish McArthur, Pippa Watkin and Sammy Oakes and the Youth Color Climbing Festival (YCCF) for younger members Josh Ibbertson and Katherine MacDougall.

European Youth Cup (EYC)

Hamish, Pippa and Sammy had all been training vigorous hard to ensure that they were ready to compete on the big stage. Their weekly routines

 involving a minimum of four wall sessions each weak with mix of bouldering, endurance and competition simulation to ensure they are peaking for the competition in Austria from the 28th to the 29th of May 2016 in Imst (Austria).

Our GB Youth Climbing Team would be competing in three separate categories: Pippa in the Female Youth B Lead (43 participants), Sammy in the Male Youth A Lead (38 participants) and Hamish in the Male Youth B Lead (38 participants).

Pippa Watkin told us that, “In the weeks leading up to the competition, my training was going well and I was feeling psyched for the comp.” Confident, nervous and a touch of excitement she continued to say that ‘It’s hard not to get excited about climbing on the Imst wall as it is so different from the walls in Britain’. Pippa was issued the Number 40 after arriving on the Saturday, this meant that she was the 40th participant to attempt the routes. Pippa’s route was a long route and one that, being Number 40, she could take her time to study and analyse while other participants attempted. After 12 competitors into the 43, the decision was made to start warming up on the indoor wall to build confidence for the big stage. “When it was my turn, I pulled on, feeling confident. The lower section had some nasty slopers, at this stage the moves were generally ok. However, higher up, the moves started to get bigger. Unfortunately, I got flash pump clipping a clip and subsequently fell off going for a big move out left. Despite falling off, I was generally satisfied with my climb as I had got 35+.” The second qualification climb was quicker than Pippa thought, 

Photo (C) Heiner Schmidl

with her position now 20th she had enough time to watch some of her competitors and warm up again. The second qualification climb began, “I pulled on but immediately realised that these holds were greasy so I would have to fight hard to get high. Sadly, I panicked half way up and fell off. I was disappointed with my performance but I vowed to train harder come back stronger in the future.” It was a great experience for Pippa, although slightly disappointed with her performance on the day we now that Pippa is capable of big things, which she is determined to prove to everyone on the big stage next time.

Rank

Surname

Forename

Nation

Final

1.Qualification

2.Qualification

Points

33

WATKIN

PIPPA

GBR

 

35+ 25.

20+ 40.

32.86

 

Photo (C) Heiner Schmidl

Next up was Sammy Oakes competing in the Male Youth A Lead, Sammy told us that prior to the event he was feeling strong and confident and ready for the challenges ahead. However, the nervousness and the overall excitement may have affected Sammy’s performance, with his mental concentration and overall sharpness not up to his normal high set standards. The mental side of his performance played a large part in his success, causing him to make silly mistakes, which resulting in an earlier than expected fall. Sammy, was is a strong character and a simple bad day isn’t going to stop him in his quest for European success. Sammy has his eyes on the European Championships already and is working hard to show what he can bring to the wall.


Rank

Surname

Forename

Nation

Final

1.Qualification

2.Qualification

Points

37

OAKES

SAMUEL

GBR

 

26 27.

17+ 34.

35.99


Last but not least Hamish McArthur was up and ready, making his European Youth Cup (EYC) debut in Austria. Hamish had a very realistic, some may say pessimistic, view on his performance levels prior to the competition. Hamish stated that, “I’m at the low end of Youth B, so although I know I could 

climb well, I wasn’t getting any hopes up for a high finish”. Little did he know that this would be the catalyst to his success in the Europeans. Staying 

Photo (C) Heiner Schmidlcalm is a pivotal aspect of any competition, especially on the main stage, but Hamish stayed composed and for this he was rewarded by qualifying for the second qualifications for the finals on the Sunday. Having climbed at Imst before, Hamish was unsure of the exact routes but had a general idea of what was to be expected. Going from good to better, the second qualification round was a success – on to the final. The final was as expected…tough. “The route was not really my favourite style”, but soldiering through the difficulties Hamish’s performances were rewarded by being placed 5th out of 38 participants. “I’m happy with what I did, I finished top of the 2002 year group and highest placed GB climber which is far more than I expected on my EYC debut. I’ll go into the EYC boulder events and the rest of the season with confidence”. Congratulations Hamish, a performance that you can be proud of.

Rank

Surname

Forename

Nation

Final

1.Qualification

2.Qualification

Points

5

MCARTHUR

HAMISH

GBR

34+

37+ 4.

35+ 1.

3.16


Overall from the event from the various competition categories and with the help of our Boreal-Allcord (B-A) GB Youth Climbing Team, Great Britain achieved a national placing of seventh. Fantastic effort for all our competitors.

Rank

Nation

Nationality

Points

7

GBR

GREAT BRITIAN

211

 

Youth Color Climbing Festival (YCCF)

What is the Youth Colour Climbing Festival (YCCF)?

The Youth Color Climbing Festival (YCCF) is a youth open completion for age categories D & C held in Imst, Austria.  

Both Katherine and Josh were in the Youth C category this year which meant they were on lead for the first time this year. As there are very few international lead climbing comps for their age category the competition attracts the top young climbers from all over the world, in fact they limited the entry to 60 places and both the boys and Girls were oversubscribed this year.

The first day of the completion is the qualifiers and at the end of the day the top 20 got through to the finals on the second day.

A week after other members of the Boreal-Allcord (B-A) Youth Climbing Team had their chance in Imst, from the 4th to the 5th of June, it was Josh and Katherine’s change to show what Great Britain had to offer on the wall.

Our GB Youth Climbing Team would be competing in two separate categories: Josh in the Pupil 1 Male 2003-2004 (60 participants) and Katherine in the Pupil 1 Female 2003-2004 (62 participants).

Josh, very much like Hamish, was extremely excited to make his European debut at Imst. On the first day the competitors were given six routes to climb, with a variety of different styles required to tackle each one. Out the six routes, Josh had topped five of them in the qualification rounds and showed great promise for the remaining tournament – qualifying eleventh out of 60. With nine competitors topping all six of the routes in the qualifiers, Josh knew that he would have to dig deep to make sure he could compete at the highest level on the second day. After some rest, the second day was here, and Josh seemed ready, the first climb didn’t seem to go as well as the climbs on the first day, but Josh made sure that he pushed through a specific challenge which caused so many others to fall off. I was a lot more relaxed on the second day, knowing that I wasn’t going to achieve a podium finish, but “I think I felt too relaxed, made a silly mistake and came off low down.” This allow others to bypass me and top the final routes. Josh wasn’t dishearten by his first experience at Imst, “Overall I was pleased with my result performance on the first day and achieved my main aim of making the finals. However I was a little disappointed on how my final route went, but I have learnt from this and next year I will go back better prepared and at the older end of the age category.” We look forward to seeing more and more of Josh on the European stage and hope that he can progress to his highest potential. 




Katherine was excited from the very beginning, the journey there was an experience in itself with the flight being Katherine first. Katherine was curious about the 

competition outside of Britain, knowing many faces within the climbing community, it is a great experience of the unknown that excited her most: the competitors, the country and of course the wall. Katherine experience the pre-wall jitters much like everyone else “I felt slightly anxious about messing up early on but when I started climbing I felt much more relaxed and confident.” Loving every minute of the wall, Katherine enjoyed the variety and challenges that the wall offered – especially the Blue Volumey climb. After, what felt like a less than convincing performance, Katherine had planned a Sunday out on rock (a fab 7a+ line), then the results came in and she had made the final. Sunday would now be fighting for a podium finish against all the other finalists. The anxiety that surrounded her at the start of her first climb was nowhere to be seen, confident and a lot calmer Katherine tackled the final. “Shaking when I pulled out the ground but when I relaxed the moves started to flow and I enjoyed the climb.” Katherine finished 14th out of 63, an achievement that she can be proud of.  




Congratulations to all competitors who attended the event and a big well done to Hamish McArthur, Pippa Watkin, Sammy Oakes, Josh Ibbertson and Katherine MacDougall for pushing your hardest and doing extremely well in your respective categories.

Now the work begins again for the next Europeans.

 

Check out the Kletterzentrum IMST Report at ‘IMST Report’ 

And picture of the Kletterzentrum IMST Facebook page:

European Youth Cup (EYC)

  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (102) – EYC Lead Imst Finale 2016. Photos © Heiner Schmidl
  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (55) – EYC Lead Imst 2016 Qualification. Photos © Andy 
  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (132) – EYC Lead Imst 2016 – Quali2. Photos © Heiner Scmidl 
  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (201) – EYC lead Imst 2016 – Quali1. Photos © Heiner Scmidl 
  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (160) – Quali. Photos © Vertical Madness – Dalton 

Youth Color Climbing Festival (YCCF)

  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (96) – YCCF Imst 2016 
  1. Kletterzentrum Imst – Facebook Images (158) – Youth Color Climbing Festival 2016 | Vertical Madness

 

 

 

Author: Allcord

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